Today, we're jumping into an integral part of the fashion design process that often leaves many in a tangle - selecting the perfect fabric for your lingerie and swimwear designs.
Specifically, we're focusing on how to decide on materials for lingerie and swimwear - areas where comfort, functionality, and aesthetics must harmoniously intertwine. Before we swim into fashion design fabric sourcing, let’s chat about what we’ve already shared a bit before on this topic.
In a previous post, we discussed the basics of sourcing to put you into the designer's mindset.
In part two, we explained how to prepare for material sourcing. We touched upon various factors you should consider while looking for the perfect fabrics for your fashion brand, including the look, feel, fiber content, weight, stretch, additional qualities, cost, and availability. In case you missed it, you can find that post here. Now, it’s time to move on to the fun part of this post.
Selecting the right fabric for your lingerie or swimwear designs.
1. Consider the Look and Feel of Your Lingerie and Swimwear Fabric:
An essential step in selecting suitable fabrics for your lingerie or swimwear designs is considering your piece's overall design intent and concept. The overall aesthetic is a great area to use your inspiration images to drive the direction.
Remember the physical properties of what you are trying to convey with the garment. For example, a silky stretch satin blended with luxurious lace is perfect for a romantic, sensual bra or lingerie set, while not ideal for a supportive and durable sports bra, which requires stretchy, high modulus, durable fabric like nylon-spandex knit with 4-way stretch.
Similarly, for swimwear, you would want a material that retains its shape and color when wet, like a nylon-spandex blend. You may need something with more drape or something with a shaping panel. Consider the placement and purpose to make sure the fabric is a fab fit.
2. Understanding Lingerie and Swimwear Base Materials:
It's important to research different types of fabrics and their properties. Take a look at our chart for a quick look at some common materials and their best uses:
Material Name: The general type of fabric (e.g., satin, lace, mesh, etc.)
Image: Visual reference of the material:
Fiber Composition: The primary fiber(s) used in the fabric (e.g., cotton, nylon, polyester, etc.)
Stretch/Rigid: Indicate whether the fabric has stretch or is rigid.
Knit/Woven: Indicate whether the fabric is knitted or woven.
Best for (Lingerie/Swimwear/Both): Indicate whether this fabric is best used for lingerie, swimwear, or both.
Sustainable Options: If available, list any sustainable versions of the fabric (e.g., organic, recycled, etc.)
Cost Range: Indicate the approximate cost per yard using the $ system ($ = $1-2, $$ = $2-5, $$$ = $5-15, $$$$ = $15+)
Comments: Here, you can jot down any thoughts, observations, or special notes about the fabric.
Material Name | Image | Fiber Composition | Stretch/Rigid | Knit/Woven | Properties | Best For | Sustainable Options | Cost | Comments |
Allover Lace |  | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Stretch or Rigid | Knit (varies by type) | Stretch, aesthetic appeal | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$$ | Commonly used for lingerie due to its feminine appeal |
Cotton Lawn |  | Cotton | Rigid | Woven | Lightweight, softness, breathability | Lingerie | Organic Cotton Lawn | $$ | Ideal for comfortable lingerie pieces |
Edge Lace |  | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Stretch or Rigid | Woven | Stretch, edge detailing | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$$ | Often used as a trim in lingerie pieces |
Eyelash Lace | | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Rigid is more popular but stretch is available | Woven | Delicate, aesthetic appeal | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$$$ | Luxurious type of lace with distinctive 'eyelashes' |
Galloon Lace |  | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Stretch or Rigid | Woven | Stretch, scalloped edges | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$$ | Versatile lace that is often used in lingerie designs |
Mesh |  | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Stretch or Rigid | Knit | Breathability, stretch | Both | Recycled versions available | $$ | Used for added breathability and stretch |
Satin |  | Polyester/Silk | Stretch or Rigid | Woven | Smoothness, sheen, drapability | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$$ | Provides a luxurious feel and look |
Swimwear Tricot |  | Polyester/Nylon + Spandex | Stretch | Knit | Durability, stretch, colorfastness | Swimwear | Recycled versions available | $$$ | Main material for swimwear due to its properties |
Tulle |  | Polyester/Nylon | Rigid | Woven | Lightweight, fine netting | Lingerie | Recycled versions available | $$ | Often used for decorative purposes in lingerie |
Materials such as silk, satin, lace, cotton, and microfiber are popular for lingerie due to their softness, comfort, and breathability.
In contrast, swimwear commonly uses fabrics like nylon, polyester, and spandex for their stretch, durability, and quick-drying properties.
3. Don’t Forget to Factor in Fiber Content:
Choosing the right fiber content is crucial. Material fiber content is a great place to consider using recycled materials to improve your company's sustainability.
Think of fibers as the basic ingredients of your fabric recipe. They are the base of what you’re creating, and the final result highly depends on what you use here.
The finished fabric is like the finished dish—ready to consume. When planning your material goals, you want to ensure the fiber content matches how you want the garment to feel and react on the body.
Natural fibers are grown from the earth and offer wonderful characteristics and properties that have allowed us to use these materials for centuries. Cotton and bamboo are breathable and soft, perfect for comfortable undergarments, soft cup bras, and panties. Another natural fiber, linen has a slightly stiffer hand and is better suited for pajamas or sleepwear. Still, usually, linen feels best close to the body when it's blended with cotton or another soft natural fiber.
Synthetic fibers which are man-made, like polyester and nylon, offer strength, durability, and resilience, making them ideal for swimwear. Nylon is often the base of mesh and tulle, sometimes mixed with spandex to offer added stretch. Polyester is often used for satin and georgette, and it’s sometimes mixed with spandex or elastane.
Semi-synthetic fibers are derived from natural cellulose or protein but require more processing than natural fibers to be transformed into a textile material. This process imbues these fibers with unique characteristics that combine the best features of both natural and synthetic fibers.
Rayon, for example, is a semi-synthetic fiber made from reconstituted cellulose, typically derived from wood pulp. It exhibits comfortable softness and excellent moisture absorption, similar to natural fibers like cotton or bamboo, making it a popular choice for lingerie. Modal and lyocell, often marketed under the brand name Tencel, are types of rayon that offer additional strength, sustainability, and luxurious drape.
Semi-synthetic fibers can also be more eco-friendly than purely synthetic fibers. While they require chemical processing, they are derived from renewable sources and are more biodegradable than purely synthetic fibers. The sustainability of all fibers heavily depends on the manufacturing process, so it's important to source from suppliers who prioritize eco-friendly practices.
Take a look at the below to better understand your fiber options. Remember this is not a comprehensive list, so there are of course other options out there—the sky is the limit.
Fiber | Type | Properties | Best For | Origin Countries | Cost | Sustainable Options | Comments |
Bamboo | Natural | Softness, breathability, antimicrobial | Lingerie | China, India | $$ | Organic Bamboo | Gaining popularity due to its sustainable characteristics |
Cotton | Natural | Softness, breathability, comfort | Lingerie | USA, India, China | $$ | Organic Cotton | Universal textile used in a variety of garments |
Linen | Natural | Lightweight, breathable, natural | Lingerie | Belgium, Ireland, France | $$ | Organic Linen | Excellent for warm climates and known for its durability |
Nylon | Synthetic | Strength, durability, resilience | Swimwear | USA, China, India | $$ | Recycled Nylon | Often used in performance and swim fabrics |
Polyester | Synthetic | Durable, quick-drying, wrinkle-resistant | Swimwear | China, India, USA | $ | Recycled Polyester | Widely used in swimwear due to its resilience and colorfastness |
Rayon | Semi-Synthetic | Softness, breathability, comfort | Lingerie | USA, India, China | $$ | FSC Certified Rayon | Can also go by other names like modal or lyocell |
Silk | Natural | Softness, breathability, luxury | Lingerie | China, India, Italy | $$$$ | Peace Silk | Known for its luxurious feel and aesthetic appeal |
Spandex | Synthetic | Stretch, contour, shape retention | Both | China, Korea, USA | $$ | Recycled Spandex | Usually blended with other fibers, rarely used alone. Spandex is the name brand for elastane |
4. Consider the Fabric Weight:
Before you consider fabric weight, you must understand how we measure it. Instead of measuring fabric weight in pounds or ounces, we typically measure fabric via grams per square meter or GSM.
This method of measuring is used to gauge the weight and thickness of the fabric. Higher GSM values correspond to a heavier and typically more durable fabric, while lower GSM values correspond to a lighter and potentially less durable fabric.
Understanding GSM in fabric can help you determine the quality and durability of the material. Fabrics with a high GSM tend to be more durable, warmer, and heavier, making them ideal for items like outerwear or upholstery. Conversely, fabrics with a low GSM tend to be lighter and more breathable, which is desirable for items like summer clothing or lightweight underwear.
Your fabric weight should coordinate with the garment's purpose and construction details. You want to consider all the materials together in a garment and wouldn’t want any element to overpower another.
For example, suppose you use a super heavy mesh with a super lightweight lace. It might feel out of balance like the materials are fighting each other when on the body. The garment may feel like it will tear at any moment if they are drastically different weights. The same can be true for swimwear — if you use a really strong outer fabric and a very wimpy lining, the outside of the garment is likely to overpower the lining and you may end up with an odd fit.
It's also important to note that while GSM is a helpful indicator, it's not the only factor to consider when determining a fabric's quality and appropriateness for a particular use. Other factors such as the type of material, the weave, and the finish also play significant roles.
The weight also affects the fabric opacity, so you will want to increase the weight for a more covering, less transparent garment. In contrast, the weight should go down for a more sheer, lighter, and less opaque garment.
Fabric Type | Standard GSM | Opacity Level |
Swimwear Tricot | 160 to 200 gsm | Fully Opaque |
Swimwear Helenca Lining | 120 to 160 gsm | Semi Sheer |
Lightweight Mesh | 40 to 100 gsm | Sheer |
Powermesh | 100 to 160 gsm | Semi Sheer |
Tulle | 20 to 40 gsm | Ultra Sheer |
Microfiber | 120 to 180 gsm | Mostly Opaque |
Knit Jersey | 120 to 280 gsm | Mostly Opaque |
Georgette | 60 to 120 gsm | Semi Sheer |
Satin | 80 to 140 gsm | Opaque |
Cotton Lawn | 90 to 160 gsm | Semi Sheer |
Generally, lighter-weight fabrics like mesh, tulle, and lace are well-suited for delicate lingerie pieces. Other suggested lingerie and intimate apparel materials: modal, satin, georgette, and embroidery.
Swimwear is designed with a specific purpose and end use; it has to spend time in chlorine and salt water while being super stretchy and durable. It's often somewhat structured, requiring heavier, sturdier fabrics designed with man-made fibers.
5. Check Stretch and Rigidity:
Both rigid and stretchy fabrics work in intimates and lingerie. Understanding the limitations of both is what is most important for this area.
A rigid material like embroidery on tulle can be well suited for bras, bralettes, panties, and other lingerie pieces, assuming you add a stretchy mesh to the back to help it fit snugly around the body. The problem with rigid material is that it limits the size flexibility of your garment. Given there is no stretch, the material can be pretty unforgiving if you aren't a great fit for the style and shape. Rigid materials can be an excellent option to create and direct the overall shape with more structure.
You can add stretch without elastic or spandex by knitting the material to have 'mechanical stretch,' but there are limitations to this type of stretch. Often, this mechanical doesn't have strong stretch or great recovery after being stretched.
Materials created with elastic or spandex are usually more stretchy than items with only mechanical stretch. Elastic materials also tend to make a garment more comfortable as they provide ease around the body's curves. Stretchy materials like mesh, knits, galloon laces, and swimwear tricots are better for size flexibility as they make a garment more fit-flexible. Stretchier materials often mean the garment works on more bodies and silhouettes.
6. Consider Additional Qualities:
If you're designing a functional sports bra or active swimwear that needs extra performance abilities, you might need fabric with additional features such as moisture-wicking, quick-drying, or UV protection properties. There are many different types of fabric treatments, finishes, and washes you can leverage in the fabric development process to improve hand feel, increase overall durability, or adjust the appearance.
Depending on your unique selling point, you might need to do further research to try and meet your customers' needs. Additional qualities like this are often picked up on by subtle cues, so pay attention to the small details as you evaluate your choices and throughout the development process.
7. Plan for Cost and Availability:
An all-to-forgotten step in sourcing-ensure the fabric fits within your budget and is readily available! It's terrible to fall in love with something you can't afford, but sometimes having a 'dream' quality fabric to use as a sourcing guide can be an excellent starting point.
Remember to check in with your fabric supplier to confirm they can provide the necessary quantities for sampling and bulk orders and that the fees fall within your budget.
8. Where to Source Your Fabric?
Once you clearly understand what you need, the next step is to find the suppliers that might be able to meet your needs. We've already discussed this in a previous post, so check this out here:
In conclusion, selecting the perfect fabric for lingerie and swimwear is a critical step in the design process that requires consideration of both aesthetics and functionality. It is worth taking the time to choose the right fiber composition, fabric weight, stretch, and additional features to ensure the final product matches your design intent.
Remember to also keep your budget in mind and communicate your needs clearly with suppliers to avoid any unexpected surprises. With these tips in mind, you can confidently select the ideal fabrics for your lingerie and swimwear designs and create pieces that will stand the test of time while making your customers feel confident and empowered in their own skin.
Do you have any questions or experiences with sourcing fabric for your lingerie or swimwear designs? Share your thoughts in the comments below or email us at kris@kndrsn.com.
Want to ensure that you're sourcing the perfect materials for your fashion brand? Grab the Fabric + Trims Sourcing Tracker!🌟
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